Monsoons in Mumbai move out a resources of anniversary delicacies. Home chefs from opposite communities let us in on their food memories and normal recipes
Karela per eedu
Summer in a seed
In a deficiency of uninformed fish in a season, a Kokni Muslim encampment resorts to alternatives such as pulses. Home prepare Mumtaz Kazi (@home_chefmumz) shares that one such plate is ghughri — a soup-like credentials done with whole tur, or chawli or watana. “Monsoon also brings with it little fish like ambar [small shrimps], so many unfeeling dishes are done with it,” she shares.
Jackfruit seeds
Since jackfruit is abounding in summer, they also sun-dry a seed. “They are afterwards coated in sand and stored in matkas for a stormy season. We grill them and suffer them as snacks; they’re also used in cooking,” says Kazi, who runs Mumtaz’s Kitchen.
A little fish called shingti also creates a approach to a table, when a sea enters little canals amid a downpour. “Boys of a encampment rush to a canals to locate as most fish as possible. Shingti is a really ethereal fish,” she adds.
Bittersweet affair
AAV re varsaad, dhebariyo parsaad; ooni ooni rotli ne kaarela nu shaak,” hums Parsi home prepare Mahrukh Mogrelia, serenading us to her rain-splashed childhood days in Navsari, where monsoon meant a contentment of karela or sour gourd. “The folk strain is an invitation to a rains to come, so we can path adult warm, comfortable roti with karela nu shaak. This is also Bahman mahino [month] when we [Parsis] refrain from beef of hoofed animals. So, eggs are dearer to us,” Mogrelia, who runs @mahrukhskitchen, tells us. Naturally then, eggs find their approach onto sour gourd too, in a form of karela per eedu. “We prepare it with onions, uninformed immature chilli masala and a mark of jaggery. It’s a really Parsi approach of cooking a vegetable, surfaced with eggs,” she reveals, adding that a sourness in karela helps cut down toxins in one’s complement and reinvigorate a liver.
High and dry
By May, a informed steer — and smell — of bombil and vakti on bamboo mandavs, and jawla (tiny prawns) on gunny bags backing koliwadas in a city greets us. Dried fish like bombil, jawla, karandi and khare come to a rescue of a encampment in a monsoon months, when a boats stop venturing into a sea. Koli home prepare and fish-monger Harsha Tapke tells us they also save finds of a summer. “Fish is a contingency for us and if it’s raining and we can’t go out, we bank on dusty fish. Dried jawla, bombil and khare are all baked mostly in onions and garlic. We supplement a lurch of sugarine to ban a pungency,” she reveals. Dried mandeli and karandi are also consumed by roasting on a low flame. “Sukkhi vakti ambat is also a delicacy. We prepare baingan or eggplant with bombil, too,” she adds.
Suka kanda jawla
Suka kanda jawla
Ingredients
7 large onions 3 immature chillies 1 kg dry jawla 3 garlic cloves 2 tbsp turmeric 2 tbsp oil 1 tbsp Koli masala or red chilli powder 1 crater coriander 50 ml H2O
Method
Add chopped onions to a oil, along with chopped garlic and chillies. Stir good and supplement salt as per taste. Throw in a dusty jawla; once a onions spin brown, supplement H2O and prepare for 10 mins by shutting a lid. Tip in turmeric powder and a Koli masala. Mix it good and shower a splash of sugarine to revoke a bitterness. Add a splash of salt as per taste, if necessary. Once ready, ornament with chopped coriander and suffer suka kanda jawla with prohibited bhakri.
Fishy flower
Right from a finish of May, a Facebook organisation of Pathare Prabhus — one of a strange settlers on a Mumbai island — starts buzzing with fad around shewla or dragon petiole yam, a anniversary freshness that occupies honour of place among a community. Home prepare Soumitra Velkar, who runs Hungry Cat Kitchen (@hungrycatkitchen), says shewla is typically found after a initial showers.
Shewla
Maharashtrian vendors sell it in pairs with a fruit called kakda, a souring agent. Pathare Prabhus, however, use tamarind as a neutralising agent. “Shewla is abounding in oxalates that don’t determine with people’s throats and if we have it though neutralising it, it can means a serious allergic reaction,” he cautions. The furnish is same to a mushroom, though somewhat soft and spongy. “It’s got a clever unlikely aroma and an umami flavour. It’s energetically awaited among a community,” Velkar elaborates.
Shewlache sambhare
Shewlache sambhare
Ingredients
1 crater chopped and pale shewla 1.5 crater chopped onions 1/2 crater tamarind mislay 2 tsp red chilli powder 2 tsp parbhi sambhaar 4 tbsp oil 1/2 crater prawns (preferably karandi) 1.5 crater skinny second mislay of coconut divert and 1 crater thick initial mislay 2 tbsp besan (dissolve in skinny mislay and make a slurry) A splash of hing
Soumitra Velkar
Method
Heat oil in a thick-bottomed pan, supplement a splash of hing and chopped onions. Sauté on a middle fire compartment a onions are pink. Add a pale shewale and tamarind, and continue to fry, stirring for 10 minutes. Add a powdered masalas and continue frying compartment a oil separates and a reduction comes together. Combine this with a skinny mislay besan slurry and move to a effervescent simmer. Add a prawns and a thick extract; adjust a seasoning and cook kindly for a integrate some-more mins compartment a prawns are cooked. Serve once somewhat cooled with steamed rice.
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