Mumbai Food: Taste home-style cooking from west seashore of India

(Top) Chicken Ghee Roast; (above) Vegetable Stew and Idiappam. PICS/SHRADDHA UCHIL

Did we know that a inhabitants of a Indus Valley were creation a creation a obsolete chronicle of a curry as prolonged as 4,500 years ago? It is no surprise, then, that in a millennia that have followed, curries have turn an constituent partial of Indian cooking. Every segment has a movement of a tack — from West Bengal’s amiable chingri malaikari to a sharp Goan vindalho — and it is this rainbow of flavours that we can representation during a soon-to-launch grill in Khar, called Curry Tales.

The grill is a outcome of a partnership between Sandeep Sreedharan, a self- taught cook and owner of private catering try Esca Brahma, and restaurateur Suved Lohia. It occupies a cosy space that’s a hop, skip and burst from a dozens of watering holes that call Khar West home. Strings of angel lights zigzagging around a country setup lend a 40-seater grill a comfortable glow, with some quirky elements combined to a decor.

Fish Cutlets

Sreedharan explains that a menu goes over a transport found during city restaurants, and he hopes to reconstruct a elementary flavours of home cooking. Currently, it facilities dishes from a coasts of Kerala, Karnataka and Goa, and, in reduction than dual months’ time, will be tweaked to embody some-more favourites from coastal Maharashtra, too.

We start a plate with a tumbler of piping prohibited Tomato Rasam (Rs 100), a ideal pill to a stormy afternoon. Our ardour whetted, we are prepared to puncture in. The Mushroom Sukha (Rs 220) immediately transports us to a ancestral home in Mangalore, with a tasty chunks of fungus replacing a duck that traditionally goes into a dish. Redolent with coconut and spices, it sets a tinge for a dishes that follow.

Paalpayasam with Jaggery Coconut

The Fish Cutlets (Rs 275) might be simple, though they’re well-seasoned and boiled to perfection. The Chicken Ghee Roast (Rs 325), meanwhile, is a reduction decadent though flavorful chronicle of nonetheless another Mangalorean classic, and when we acknowledgement on it, Sreedharan tells us that a recipes are adaptations of those he has attempted during homes of friends and family who live along a western coast.

Interiors

Sreedharan’s repertoire is on arrangement in a mains section, that facilities his take on classics such as Koottu Kari (Rs 235) and Malabar Fish Curry (Rs 375), that are not always easy to find during city restaurants. The coconut milk-heavy Vegetable Stew (Rs 235) tastes best when it’s ladled on noodle-like Idiappam (Rs 80). The Fish Moili (Rs 375), meanwhile, goes good with possibly a normal Palakkad Matta Rice (Rs 125) or soft, piping prohibited Dosas (Rs 60). You could also span some of a mains with flaky and light-as-air Parottas (Rs 60).

Sandeep Sreedharan

The best approach to finish your culinary float along a seashore is with a Paalpayasam with Jaggery Coconut (Rs 185). With this dessert, Sreedharan gives a unchanging south Indian divert pudding an ascent by commanding it with jaggery-roasted grated coconut.

The menu during Curry Tales will change each few months to embody some-more informal coastal fare. But as it stands now, a food gets a thumbs-up from us for being light, not only on a pockets, though also on a tummy.

OPENS: Aug 19
TIME: 12 pm to 3 pm, 7 pm to 12 am
AT: Bhavya Plaza, 5th Road, Khar West.
CALL: 9820073765

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