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Mumbai Food: 4 Parsi chefs prepared to bust cuisine misconceptions for Parsi New Year
- Updated: August 12, 2016
“The biggest classify about Parsis is that we eat usually Dhansak,” confesses a agreeable 29-year-old Perzen Patel a.k.a a Bawi Bride, as 62-year-old banker-turned-entrepreneur and home cook Katy Billimoria laughs, “Oh yes, one Sunday, Dhansak and a subsequent Sunday, Prawn Curry and Rice.” Kainaz Contractor, a cherubic Delhi-based owners of Rustom’s Parsi Bhonu (a grill named after her father, a naval officer who bears no similarity to a new Akshay Kumar-starrer) joins in, “The proclivity to start Rustom’s (in 2014) was to concede people to try home-style dishes like Masoor Ma Gos and Dhandar Patio.” Meanwhile, 52-year-old Shireen Adenwalla, a maestro on a city’s catering stage with her brand, Truffles, sets a record straight, “Parsi food has a excellent sweet-and-sour balance, distinct a Irani cuisine that facilities a lot of fruits, nuts and Berry Pulao.”
(From left) Shireen Adenwalla, Kainaz Contractor, Perzen Patel and Katy Billimoria with cook Thomas Zacharias. Pics/Bipin Kokate
Decked in aprons temperament their particular names, a Parsi quartet, seated absolutely during a list during The Bombay Canteen, has collaborated with a grill to emanate The Canteenwalla Menu that launches subsequent week to applaud a Parsi New Year. “The arise is mostly about food. Since a final dual weeks, a cooking list contention in my residence is where to go for cooking on that day,” admits Patel.
Aleti Paleti by Kainaz Contractor
Beyond Salli Chicken
The menu facilities mixed contributions from any chef. While Adenwalla is credited for Chicken Maivahlan and Jardaloo (apricot) Ma Gos, Kanpur-born Billimoria’s offerings embody Saas Ni Machhi and Sitaphal Parsi Ravo. Though any plate reflects a authentic impression of a owners, apt cook Thomas Zacharias has dressed it adult to fit a restaurant’s sensibilities. Like, a Chicken Maivahlan, traditionally a tawny duck baked dish, will be baked in a copper pot. Mean-while, Billimoria’s Parsi Ravo with semolina and cream milk, substitutes her further of a Kesar Peda with a anniversary custard apple.
Lagan Nu Custard Ice Cream Sandwich by Perzen Patel
“The ambience of a plate in each Parsi domicile varies, that’s something singular to a community,” says Zacharias. Case in point: One of Patel’s contributions, Grandpa’s Kheema Kebabs container in potato and bread vis-à-vis a spiced kheema kebabs baked in many Parsi homes. “I learnt a recipe from my grandfather, who would make it for breakfast,” recounts Patel, who will also plate out Lagan Nu Custard Ice Cream Sandwich.
Jardaloo Ma Gos by Shireen Adenwalla
Similarly, Contractor’s offering, Aleti Paleti (made regulating offal including mutton liver, kidney and spleen) facilities a boiled egg, only a approach her father favourite it for breakfast. She has also common a recipe for Russian Pattice Pav Sandwich and Nariyal Na Doodh Ma Cauliflower, where a plate is baked into a pot cake with smoke pastry. “The flavours change according to a partial of a nation that a Parsi is from. Those in Delhi cite spicier transport while Parsis in Mumbai use some-more of fish, prawns and peanut and coconut base, shabby by Gujaratis and coastal cuisine,” she informs. Patel adds, “Traditionally, Parsis in a city also had a lot of Goan cooks, so there is a clever Goan change too.”
Saas Ni Machhi by Katy Billimoria
When we enquire about a start of a Russian Pattice, a organisation turns to Patel, who replies, “It’s a take on a chicken-potato Russian salad. This competence sound extremist though according to one theory, it’s called so due to a sauce-chicken filling, that is white like a Russians.”
Eggs, meats get vote
During a conversation, a organisation reaffirms a community’s adore for eggs and meat, that also make their participation felt in veggie dishes. “We have a plate called Papdi Ma Kebab, wherein we supplement kheema kebabs to extended beans,” says Adenwalla, as Billimoria adds, “We make Chutney Eeda Pattice (a chronicle facilities on a gratifying menu too), where potato pattice is pressed with chutney and half an egg.” Patel logically explains, “They were combined to leftovers to make a plate some-more engaging a subsequent day.” Zacharias observes, “This shows how under-represented eggs are during restaurants.”
When we ask if a younger era final a change in a flavours of Parsi fare, a organisation disagrees. Contractor says, “They are normal when it comes to Parsi food. For instance, Lagan Nu Bhonu has remained unvaried for a final 30 years and everybody unanimously loves (wedding caterer) Tanaz Godiwala. People do try to supplement western starters but…” Billimoria finishes a sentence, “It’s not acceptable.” And for a organisation that’s wondering if there will be any Parsis left to applaud a New Year, 500 years from now when it might once again coincide with a Irani Navroz, we aren’t astounded by a invariable adore and honour they showering on their cuisine.
FROM Aug 17 to 31 (12 noon to 3.30 pm, 7 pm to 11.30 pm)
AT The Bombay Canteen, Unit 1, Process House, Kamala Mills, SB Road, Lower Parel.
CALL 49666666