Food: South Mumbai grill Zaffran to get a tellurian makeover

The floods have receded and a object is resplendent brightly overhead. Sweat beads drip down a brow as a cab manoeuvres past bikers, trucks and pedestrians who seem to give dual hoots about a continuous honking. Our tour ends outward Sitaram Building, where, in a past, many of us have stumbled in and out of Zaffran in a diminutive hours, looking to feed a inspired selves after a night of partying.

The grill was a brainchild of dual friends, Chetan Sethi and Munib Birya, who met during Sophia College during their hotel government march in 1996. At 23, they pooled in finances to open a Mughlai grill during Crawford Market in 2003. “It was not even deliberate tighten to a hip neighbourhoods like Colaba,” laughs Sethi, who mans a kitchen.

Mutton Pepper Kulcha
Mutton Pepper Kulcha

On a and side, lease was low and a twin realised that there would be no default of clients, with shoppers, traders and office-goers thronging a area each day. “There were usually Irani and Udupi restaurants in a community behind then,” reminisces 38-year-old Sethi , admissing that they were primarily met with resistance. “Even friends weren’t prepared to come to Crawford Market. Then, people started grouping in. We always believed that people will go anywhere for good food,” Birya says, finishing a thought.

Fourteen years later, they are prepared to launch chronicle 2.0 of Zaffran, paving a approach for Ustaadi, that will offer tellurian fare, in further to Indian cuisine. Spread opposite 7,000 sq ft with apart smoking and non-smoking sections, it also houses a kids’ play area, with toys, a jungle gym and animation films on offer. At a table, a tiny ones will be served in colourful, kid-friendly plates, and a special Chhote Ustaad menu is also in a pipeline.

Kacha Keri Margarita
Kacha Keri Margarita

“We transitioned but shutting a restaurant. Zaffran has been a flag-bearer of rational Mughlai and North Indian cuisine; now, we are prepared to offer more,” explains Birya, who handles a front bureau and operations.

Old gives approach to new
Climbing adult dual flights of wooden stairs, we travel into a informed subterraneous den-like space, with walls that tongue-tied a sound of a marketplace outward and emanate a cosy cocoon. Warm yellow light from country bronze chandeliers sets a mood, highlighting name walls that have a story to tell. “While we trust in a poise of art, we are celebrating ‘ustaadi’ opposite fields like photography, song and fashion. One territory celebrates a poise of essay with books adorning a walls,” says Birya.

Balinese Spiced Banana Leaf Basa
Balinese Spiced Banana Leaf Basa

Warning: a menu is vast, divided into 5 sections — All-Day Breakfast and Pizza, Indian, Asian, Cosmopolitan, and Desserts. We start a image with Pulled Raan Bao (R375), Butter Chicken Bao (R325) and Balinese Spiced Banana Leaf Basa (R395). The Pulled Raan Bao is spicy, cushioned between a honeyed bao that takes a prick out of a chilli. The Butter Chicken chronicle is milder and flavourful.

We uncover a basa to find it swimming in a coconut curry spiced with Balinese yellow chilli. The steamed fish is creamy, and melts in a mouth. Skilfully executed, a image is simple, authentic flavours. We also suggest a new entrant in a Indian section, a South Indian-style Mutton Pepper Kulcha (R165), that comes oozing with butter and is bedecked with rocket leaves that give it a crunchy finish. We rinse this down with a Kacha Keri Margarita (R175).


Belgian Chocolate Roll

For a categorical course, there is Indonesian Nasi Goreng (R395), that comes with prawn skewers in a immature sauce, prawn chips and an egg. Made regulating jasmine rice, it’s a well-balanced image with a flavours and textures of garlic, ginger, chillies and soy. We bite a somewhat burning aftertaste it leaves on a lips.

The Saffron Mushroom and Asparagus Risotto (R375) is creamy, and a al dente Arborio rice, worldly fungi and pointy saffron make it a pleasant combination. We finish a image with a Belgian Chocolate Roll (R195), a slimey chocolate cake that comes lonesome in a eccentric caramel-cracker coating. It immediately brings to mind Cooper’s Fudge from Lonavala.

Munib Birya and Chetan Sethi
Munib Birya and Chetan Sethi 

Although flash a new menu, Ustaadi retains Zaffran’s suspicion of charity filling, value-for-money alloy and authentic dishes. “No tiny image ever fed a customer,” laughs Sethi, admissing that they are looking during holding a code overseas.

Mistaken identities


Pics/ Suresh Karkera, Tanvi Phondekar

It has been an eventful ride, a twin agrees. Hailing from a five-star hotel credentials where they had duties chalked out, their biggest plea was venturing out on their own. But they schooled on a job, and managed to emanate a cult following among immature diners. Before signing off, they share an anecdote. “Sometimes, guest would travel in, and on seeing there was a wait, they walked adult to us, claiming to know ‘Munib’ or ‘Chetan’ personally, and perfectionist to accommodate them. They didn’t realize they were vocalization to accurately Munib and Chetan.”

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