Slink & Bardot reopens in Worli with new flavours, though a same aged vibe

A mark of sea blue in a bylanes of Worli Koliwada is abuzz again as a once-popular grill and bar reopens with new flavours and a same classical vibe

A slinky return: Slink  Bardot reopens in Worli with new flavours, though a same aged vibe

Eggplant

A new invitation to an aged haunt and a guarantee of a good dish has us erratic down a gullies of Worli Village, in hunt of Slink Bardot on a breathless Thursday. Past a swift of fishing boats, before a trail narrows into a cluster of hutments, stands a aqua blue façade of Thadani House. It houses a resto bar that’s starting a new innings after a pandemic-induced pause. Slink Bardot, we’re reminded, has now changed on from being a complicated French eatery. But a suggestion lingers on, we find as we step into a arched doorway. Divorced from a Koli neighbourhood, a desirable bungalow — a weave bureau in a 1950s — can simply lure we with a rewind sheet to a residence parties and clubs of 1920s’ Paris. 

Me so morelMe so morel

You’d have to be negotiating a amiable hangover of Woody Allen’s Midnight in Paris (2011) to suppose that a checkered tile mezzanine leads we to a rogue-red bar that could have hosted a Fitzgeralds, or that Cole Porter could’ve good played a grand ol’ piano in a distant finish of a room. This lived-in cognisance wraps us around as a new horde and partner, Vicky Singh, gives us a debate of a 4 dining areas and a hideout bar underneath a skylight. Singh assimilated hands with restaurateur crony Riyaaz Amlani to give a eatery that non-stop in 2017, a new franchise of life. “By a time a second call hit, Nick Harrison and Alexis Gielbaum, who were using a space, took a call to pierce behind home [abroad]. Vicky and we hang out utterly often, and it occurred to us to do something together. A place like this needs a sold sensibility and he had some smashing ideas,” explains Amlani, CEO and MD of Impresario Handmade Restaurants. 

Quail eggQuail egg

As a curtsy to a flavorful past, a 120-seater space now offers a horde of personal plates, little plates, vast plates and desserts, not firm by cuisine though by influences opposite borders, Singh says. “That’s how we eat even during home, right? We don’t wish to shorten we to courses; it’s an unshackling experience,” he shares.

Jackfruit; (right) aeropress negroniJackfruit; (right) aeropress negroni

Like all good things, we flog off a dish with a splash — jackfruit (Rs 750) — by conduct mixologist Santosh Kukreti, who’s designed a bar menu desirous by a story of cocktails. With a purple-hued jackfruit, he manages to qualification a particular honeyed records of a summer tack but any of a fruit during all. A mix of feni, pineapple, lemongrass, kaffir lime, coconut divert and rum, it’s one of those drinks we dawdle on. Complementing a mutation is executive cook AliAkbar Baldiwala’s pleasant ceviche (Rs 160) — honeyed pineapple doused in confidant gochujang and a pointy wasabi buttermilk. Next adult from a bite-sized personal plates territory — an careful collect to span with drinks — is an umami explosve from Kashmir, me so morel (Rs 310), that packs a miso custard, peculiar bits of a fungus and is glassy with morel water. It’d be tough to hang to one portion. We wish we could contend a same about a wing (Rs 180), a chef’s take on a classical duck wings with goji berries and fermented berry prohibited salsa that is a tad too sweet. We pill this with a solitaire and campari-based aeropress negroni (Rs 1,200). An paper to a Italian cocktail from 1919, this boozy splash will literally arise we adult to smell a coffee.

Vicky Singh and Riyaaz AmlaniVicky Singh and Riyaaz Amlani

Chef Baldiwala’s fare, detached from infusing influences from opposite a world, is also a play on his memories. This nostalgia comes alive in a little play of cower egg (Rs 180) showered with beef floss or gustava, a Bohri sweetmeat and a culinary art of refuge that’s solemnly fading. The egg-y provide is utterly a swig with a crispy clean gustava, a peanut podi and tamagoyaki foam. Similarly, as a hat-tip to his time in Goa, clean toast (Rs 445) brings together a well-spoken pastrami-like beef tongue over a sour kasundi sourcream that we’d adore to lapse for. 

Chequered tiles, prosperous chandeliers and dim unsettled pastel shades lend a selected hold to a space. Pics/Pradeep DhivarChequered tiles, prosperous chandeliers and dim unsettled pastel shades lend a selected hold to a space. Pics/Pradeep Dhivar

For mains, we suffer a eggplant (Rs 575) — smoky, sweetish and wholesome, with pomegranate molasses. As we turn off a revisit with a light and coconut-ty passionfruit and yuzu spicy (Rs 395) and conduct out of a aqua blue bungalow, we’re beholden that this old-world hideout has motionless to come behind to a party.

Slink Bardot
Opens Jun 3; 6 pm to 1.30 am; Mondays closed
At Thadani House, 329/A, Worli Village. 
Call 7045904728


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